Montmartre, Paris’ 18th arrondissement, symbolizes a variety of things to different people: some love the artistic vibe, (none other than Dali, Monet, Picasso and Van Gogh, to name just the painters, lived in the neighborhood,) while others enjoy the tranquility, (the narrow and often pedestrian streets tend to make the neighborhood quieter than other areas of Paris. ) Some know Montmartre for its Pigalle “red light district,” others for the Sacré Coeur Basilica, which majestically watches over Paris from the very top of the hill. Still others have begun to dream of visiting Montmartre after having seen it in the popular movie “Amélie.”
To me, Montmartre rhymes with friendship. Our close friends in Paris all live in Montmartre or very near to it. We’ve had countless parties, lavish dinners, and drinks in the area, and we’ve come to know it through the eyes of our friends who would never trade their arrondissement for any other. Up until now, when we would travel to Paris, E and I would always stay in the 2nd, attached to the Montorgueil area, because that’s where we lived for five months in 2009. The last time we visited Paris, we grew tired of always having to endure the long subway ride or pay expensive taxi fares to climb up to Montmartre and visit our friends. Therefore, we decided that the next time we were in Paris, we would try to stay there instead.
In an effort to get to know (and love) the neighborhood like the locals do, I’ve enlisted my friend Fred to show me his favorite shops, the places where he himself goes to buy his groceries. He’s been living in Montmartre for more than six years, and he’s the perfect guide–he’s a true gourmand who cooks with the natural abilities and instincts of a professional chef. He has made some of the best meals we’ve enjoyed in Paris, and I know exactly how much the quality and origins of the products he uses matter to him. Like most Parisians, he goes to many different, small, specialty shops instead of going to one large grocery store, and many of the merchants he regularly visits know him personally, by name.
Most of the shops we visited are gathered along the main streets of Montmartre: Rue Lepic, Rue des Abbesses, and Rue de Caulincourt. Walking from one of these shops to another is easy and fun, especially if you stop once or twice along the way to have coffee or a drink in one of the many neighborhood cafés – on the terrace, bien sûr. All year long, rows of tables and chairs facing the cobblestone streets of Montmartre provide the best venues for people-watching in Paris. What’s more, the terraces are even heated throughout the winter.
I’ll take you through the best gourmet shops of Montmartre hoping you’ll one day have the chance to go and live like a Montmartrois for a week. Warning: you probably won’t ever want to leave.
Looking for the giveaway? Scroll down, details at the end of the post!
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Gourmet Grocery Store: Marché des gastronomes
- Go for: Their amazing selection of fine Iberico (Spanish) ham. You can buy a whole leg, they’ll package it for you in an easy to carry cardboard suitcase.
- You’ll also find: Fresh fruits and vegetables, international and French specialties, gourmet gifts such as prettily packaged oils, spices, salts and jams. They also have a nice selection of fine wines.
- Where: 9, place Pigalle (M- Pigalle)
Phone: 01 80 06 85 56
www.lemarchedesgastronomes.com - Opening Hours:
Monday from 5 to 9 PM, Tuesday to Sunday from 10AM to 9PM.
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Spices and Condiments: Le comptoir colonial
- Go for: Their amazing selection of spices, including rare varieties like whole white cardamom, nigella seeds and over 30 different kinds of peppercorn.
- You’ll also find: Freshly-pressed olive oil from Provence, a large selection of bottled oils and vinegars, mustards, savory preserves, spice blends, whole cocoa beans, tea, coffee and some freshly prepared snacks like marinated olives and anchovies, tapenades, hummus, etc.
- Where: 22, rue Lepic (M- Blanche or Abbesses)
Phone: 01 42 58 44 84
www.lecomptoircolonial.com - Opening Hours:
Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday: 8:45AM to 13PM and 16 to 20PM
Thurday: 16 to 20PM
Sunday: 10:30AM to 13:30PM
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French Specialties: L’épicerie du terroir
- Go for: French classics like foie gras.
- You’ll also find: Charcuteries (cured meats such as salami), Calissons d’Aix (a traditional candy made of ground almonds and candied fruit paste), nougat, Mariage Frère teas.
- Where: 26, rue Lepic (M- Blanche or Abbesses)
Phone: 01 42 62 94 66 - Opening Hours:
Non-stop everyday and Sunday mornings.
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American-Style Bakery: Berko
- Go for: Their collection of cute and delicious mini-cupcakes. Cupcakes are a relatively new trend in Paris and there are few bakeries that sell them. Berko does them with a great attention to detail and amazing flavors.
- You’ll also find: Mini-tartlets and superb cheesecakes. There are a couple of tables to enjoy the sweets on site with a cup of coffee.
- Where: 31, rue Lepic (M- Blanche or Abbesses)
Phone: 01 42 62 94 12
www.berko.fr - Opening Hours:
Tuesday to Sunday, 10AM to 7:30PM
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Oysters: La Mascotte
- Go for: The best selection of the freshest oysters
- You’ll also find: A restaurant where you can enjoy the oysters and other seafood specialties.
- Where: 52, rue des Abbesses (M- Abbesses)
Phone : 01 46 06 28 15
www.la-mascotte-montmartre.com - Opening Hours:
Restaurant opening hours:
Monday-Friday: 12 to 15PM, 19PM to midnight
Saturday-Sunday: 12PM to midnight
The take-out counter may be open non-stop on weekdays; call to ensure they are before you go.
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Italian Specialties: La Bottega di Piacenza
- Go for: Italian cheeses like aged Parmigiano-Reggiano, Pecorino-Romano or Mozzarella di Bufala.
- You’ll also find: Everything Italian: cured meats, sweets, wines, fresh and dried pasta, take-out dishes.
- Where: 53, rue des Abbesses (M- Abbesses)
Phone: 01 44 92 90 99 - Opening Hours:
Everyday from 9:30AM to 14PM and 3:30 to 9:30PM.
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Bread: Le Grenier à Pain
- Go for: Paris’ best baguette, as attested by the prize baker Djibril Bodian won in 2010 in the yearly contest organized by the city (La meilleure baguette de Paris).
- You’ll also find: Any other kind of bread, deliciously flaky (and buttery) croissants, pains au chocolat (chocolate croissants), incredibly flavorful savory breads like olive & emmenthal foccacia, sandwiches, and quiches.
- Where: 38, rue des Abbesses (M- Abbesses)
Phone : 01 46 06 41 81
Also: 127, rue Caulaincourt (M- Lamarck-Caulincourt)
Phone: 01 42 62 30 98
www.legrenierapain.com - Opening Hours:
Everyday from 7:30AM to 8PM. May close earlier on Sundays.
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Cheeses: Par ici les fromages
- Go for: Their excellent advice and beautiful selection of cheeses.
- You’ll also find: Butters, crème fraîche and other dairy products. They also sell English cheeses like the Stilton (harder to find in Paris).
- Where: 47, rue Caulincourt (M- Lamarck-Caulincourt)
Phone: 01 42 52 79 02 - Opening Hours:
Tuesday to Saturday: 9:30AM to 8:30PM
Sunday: 9:30AM to 1:30PM
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Haute Couture Pastry: Arnaud Larher
- Go for: Their intricate cakes and pastries. Arnaud Larher was named “Meilleur ouvrier de France” (Best Craftman in France), a very prestigious award.
- You’ll also find: Colorful macarons and chocolates.
- Where: 53, rue Caulincourt (M- Lamarck-Caulincourt)
Phone: 01 42 57 68 08
www.arnaud-larher.com - Opening Hours:
Tuesday to Saturday from 10AM to 7:30PM
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Butcher: Boucherie Bourdain
- Go for: Friendly service and a large selection of fresh meats, including French specialties like offal or wild birds.
- You’ll also find: Traditional cured meats, terrines, rillettes, smoked salmon, whole roasted chicken sold with potatoes cooked in chicken fat. Yum!
- Where: 129, rue Caulincourt (M- Lamarck-Caulincourt)
Phone: 01 46 06 17 90 - Opening Hours:
Everyday but they may close early on Sunday. Call to inquire.
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Wine shop: Les Caves du Roy
- Go for: Their large selection of Absinthe, the French distilled and highly alcoholic beverage that was once banned for allegedly inducing hallucinogenic visions. No worries, Absinthe is now legal (albeit still very strong).
- You’ll also find: Passionate advice, awesome French wines, special tastings and oenology classes.
- Where: 31, rue Simart (M- Jules Joffrin or Marcadet-Poissonniers)
Phone: 01 42 23 99 11
www.cavesduroy.fr - Opening Hours:
Monday: 3 to 8:30PM
Tuesday to Friday: 10AM to 13:30PM and 3 to 8:30 PM
Saturday: 10AM to 8:30PM
Closed on Sunday.
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A note about staying in Paris: the best way to see the city as if you were living there is by renting an apartment. This gives you the chance to rub shoulders with real Parisians instead of tourists and to cook your own meals should you feel like taking advantage of all the great shops I just introduced to you–for more than just buying souvenirs.
During my many visits to Paris, I’ve made inquiries to many different rental agencies, but the one I always return to is Paris Attitude. They have a wide range of apartments in all of Paris’ arrondissements, for all budgets, and in all sizes. Their apartments are very well maintained, and many have been renovated. Their Web site features a wealth of information, including dozens of pictures of each and every rental. I’ve never been disappointed by Paris Attitude; the service is efficient, and the rental process isn’t complicated. Don’t hesitate to try renting an apartment and experiencing Paris as a Parisian does the next time you travel to Paris. I’m sure it’ll allow you to see the city in a completely delightfully-new and different light.
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David Lebovitz Giveaway!
By some stroke of luck, pastry chef, blogger and author David Lebovitz was having a book signing session in Paris the very night I got there. He’s been a great source of inspiration to me so I couldn’t miss the chance to meet him in person. Though the encounter was brief (many people wanted to meet him as well!) I managed to get a copy of his latest and very popular book, Ready for Dessert, signed for one lucky Food Nouveau reader! Since Christmas is just a couple of days away, I decided to also giveaway my first edition copy of The Sweet Life in Paris (which is like new). I liked this book so much that I got myself a new copy signed by David :)
David Lebovitz busy signing one of his books. The beautiful woman in front is Heather Stimmler-Hall from the blog Secrets of Paris, who was also there to promote her latest book, Naughty New York.
To win: Leave a comment saying why you’d like to go to Paris. If you went to Paris before, tell me what you liked best about the City of Lights. Don’t forget to enter your email address in the comment form so that I can contact you if you win. Contest is open to readers worldwide.
Bonus entry: Like my Facebook page and get a bonus entry! Leave a comment on the Facebook page or mention Facebook in your comment on the blog so that I know you went there.
Two winners selected at random will be announced on December 31th, 2010 at noon.
Good Luck and Happy Holidays!
I love Paris, have been there twice. I love everything about it, buildings, food, atmosphere, I would walk til I dropped and then take a cab back to my rental apartment. Have not been to the 18th yet!
for the food, of course!
[...] A Food Tour of Paris’ Montmartre – And a Book Giveaway [...]
I was lucky enough to see Montmartre on my last trip to Paris and I can say I understand the appeal. However, I wish I had this little guide with me at the time–would have made my visit that much better.
Never too late to go back. I hope you get this chance! A new year's resolution maybe? :)
I want to go to Paris for the food and the shopping. But mostly the food! Your posts make my mouth water…
research.librarian (at) yahoo.com
Food is definitely the number one reason why people want to go (or go back) to Paris! Happy I made you dream of this delicious city for a second or two.
The last time I visited Paris, I was in love, so the sights and foods of Paris ran a distant second. Now, Paris seems to me like Christmas morning for children – glittering, twinkling, intoxicating, and above all, delicious.
If Paris were a celebrity, I would be a scary stalker groupie. I was fortunate enough to visit Paris again in July of this year, taking my husband who had never been. I debated whether to explain to him why Paris is the most fabulous city in the world, or why I love the French, or why it is my life's dream is to move there someday. I decided to keep mum and said nothing, trusting that Paris would come through for me. And of course, it did. He fell in love with the food, the neighborhoods, the art, the museums, the history, and of course, the stylish Parisiens.
I am still planning to move to Paris…just have to figure out a way. Thank you for this post, and for the chance to win a book. My email is fifiseven at yahoo dot com.
And I've done the FB thing. Merci!
What a great idea to let your husband be charmed by everything Paris has to offer… It's very difficult to resist, isn't it?
I've been to Paris with my parents when I was very little, 3 or 4 perhaps and I hardly remember anything from that trip. The memories that stay in mind mind are about those huge crepes with nutella, bananas, cocount and probably rum, bought in small crperies on the streets, so messy but so yummy. The second thing I remember is the St Michael Fountain whish was close to our appartament and I always asked my parents to pass by, so I could see it once again – I was really fascinated with the angel statue, with no particular reason. IIt was so long ago and now Paris is only those two pictures for me. Would really like to see it again.
PS
With your blog I've finally managed to make my macarons
PS2
Have "liked" Your blog on Facebook as well
Good for you that you have those great Paris memories even if you went there so young! It's proof that this city does leave a strong impression on everyone who has the chance to go. I think it's one of the few places where kids enjoy just wandering around, there's so much to see!
I'm really happy that my post helped you successfully make macarons! Now you have to go back to Paris to compare yours with the masters' :)
I like Food Nouveau on Facebook. Username: Renee Richardson :)
mrsjohnson1982 at yahoo dot com
I would love to go to Paris because I want to experience another culture through food, fashion, atmosphere, etc. Just the people. I love how diverse our world is and Paris is on the top of my list of places I want to travel to. Thanks for the amazing giveaway :)
mrsjohnson1982 at yahoo dot com
I wish you a trip to Paris in 2011! Happy new year!
Just to go to another country.
melodyj(at)gmail(dot)com
Thanks for the tips!! My chef other half just goes back to his regular haunts when we go back to Paris… definitely looking forward to checking out the oysters!
Id love to go to Paris to eat all the delicious food they have to offer, and to explore the wonderful sights as well.
Pierre Hermes, Aux Trois Petits Cochons, Laduree. Coupled w/ amazing coffee, baguettes on the go, and the Rodin Museum, it's a romantic foodie haven!
My favourite part of Paris was Disney Land! *shy*
It was such a happy place!
The next favourite would be the eiffel tower with the great view from the top. I can't say the same about the queue to get up there though..
I've "liked" your facebook page!
Don't be shy! I never went but I'm sure it must be very special. The Eiffel Tower is definitely one of the highlights – one of the few tourist attractions around the world that's really worth waiting for. I have been up there twice, the second one at night and being in the towel while it twinkled at the turn of the hour was one of the most magical experiences of my life!
Because I want to learn how to PROPERLY pronounce "Tu m'ennuies" so I can say it to my BF
Lucky, lucky, lucky you! I mean, I'm ridiculously jealous that you got to visit Paris and eat so many wonderful things.. but to meet David Lebovitz on top of that? Quelle chance!
Thank you for sharing your friend's favourite shops. I've yet to visit Paris, but I'm hoping to fix that sometime in the next year or so… and this list sounds like a good starting point for the non-stop eating that is sure to follow. :)(I mean, isn't the amazing food the biggest reason for visiting Paris?)
Judging from the numerous comments I got on my post, food indeed is the first reason why people love Paris! You definitely have to go, and keep your eyes open for opportunities to meet David and other great Paris bloggers – they organize many meetups and book signing sessions throughout the year!
Paris will always be my favorite city in the world! I need to go back for a month just to explore the city more. Everytime we go we see something new…sigh
Thanks for sharing your images of Montmartre it is a beautiful area!
I love the rue Mouffetard area, on our first trip we stayed near there and will always love it!
Cheers
Dennis
I have also lived close to la rue Mouffetard once and loved it! It's very similar to the Montorgueuil area, which is my favorite place in Paris. The city's biggest problem, for us visitors, is that we never get to see EVERYTHING we want to see, thus we all just have to go back again and again… It's a beautiful problem, isn't it?
Oh, I LIKE your FB page too!
There are 3 reasons why I would LOVE to go to Paris:
1. The Art (I am an art major)
2. The sights (I would take photos of them)
3. The food (I would eat until I could eat no more)
Paris is wonderful…soon, soon I will grace Paris with my presence! Until then, I dream about it!
I'd like to go to Paris to eat a ridiculous amount of butter and macarons. Plus seeing some sites and improving my french wouldn't hurt either. I've never been and would love to just get lost and eat! David's blog makes me crazy some days… :)
I like you on FB too
Loved eating oysters and drinking Sancerre in Paris! Can't wait to go back and explore some of the modern bistros.
What I like best about the City of Lights? Even 10 years after leaving there for Toronto (I KNOW – am I crazy???), I still feel like I am at home when I return each year. We always rent apartments and have had great success with Paris Attitude also! Happy holidays!!
And Happy New Year to you Mardi! As I know you've had the chance to travel so much and live in many different places, I'd say it's telling that Paris is still one of your favorite places! It's true that living in Paris is a unique experience, but in my humble opinion, Toronto is lovely too :)
I went to Paris in 2007 and did not know about macarons. How I wish I had tasted them. Now, I'm trying to learn to make them in my home kitchen. Paris….I would love to visit the city again. Thanks for offering the give away.
cgreeves@comcast.net
Luckily, there are many pastry shops selling macarons on our side of the ocean now! Though I have to say that I've often found them disappointing – good but not as refined as those you find in Paris. I often make them at home. If you ever need tips for make them, have a look at my step-by-step post, I've had great feedback on it, I think it helped many to achieve macaron perfection! Here's the link: http://bit.ly/fmhMDC Good luck!
When I arrived in Paris for the first time this past June, I felt at home. No worries about transportation or language–just love. Love for everything Paris. When I left, I felt a great loss. There were so many things I didn't get to do. If I could go back, I would plan nothing and experience everything. I already "like" you on Facebook, by the way. Thanks for bringing Paris to me every day. (Sorry this is sappy. Must be the holiday talking.)
Don't feel sorry for being sappy! I loved your message, I feel exactly the same every time I come back from Paris. I'm happy to know I'm not the only one! I wish you have the chance to go back to enjoy the city once more and revive all the beautiful memories you brought back from this magical city.